A magical cruise along the River Yonne and Canal de Nivernais: April 2026
The barge cruise began in the historic city of Auxerre. Our 7-day trip would take us upstream along the River Yonne and the Canal de Nivernais in Burgundy.
The cruise day by day
Sunday
Auxerre
We arrived on the barge to a very warm and friendly greeting from the crew. Our hosts served us chilled Kir Royale and canapés. After settling into the comfortable cabins, there was time to step ashore and explore the quay side with a view of the stunning skyline of Auxerre.
Dinner
The evening meal began with Fresh scallops, celeriac purée, and black pudding, served with a Chablis Les Beaumonts 2023 from the Domaine Dampt Frères, 100% Chardonnay.
We continued with duck breast, pan-fried with five-spice sauce, charred leek and butternut squash. The red wine was Coulanges-la-Vineyse 2023 from Lemoule, a Pinto Noir from northern Burgundy
Cheese was then served, a Valançay from the Loire and a Comté from the Jura, delicious with the fresh French baguette.
To finish our dinner, a Vanilla panna cotta with a rich red fruit compote.
Monday
Cruise from Auxerre to Vincelles
Our first day of cruising took us upstream, leaving the panoramic vista of the Roman city of Auxerre behind us, as we headed to the village of Vincelles, passing through locks and under bridges.
Lunch buffet
- Quiche Lorraine
- Baked salmon with lemon couscous
- Blue cheese salad with pear
- Mixed salade
Served with a delightful white Sancerre, 2024 from Reverdy Ducroux in the Loire valley.
We then enjoyed a cheese called Delice de Bourgogne from Burgundy, and also a Morbier from the Jura
Visit to Chablis
In the afternoon, we began our first wine tasting excursion with a trip to the vineyards of Chablis. A wine expert met us in the cellars of the Maison Albert Bichot, and after careful explanations of wine production in the Chablis region, our hosts invited us to indugle in tasting different Chablis Crus. Our guide then showed us a view over the vineyards and cherry-tree orchards of Irancy. Do you know why there are cherry trees here?. On our return journey to Luciole, a surprise trip to somewhere in the hills, which we will not mention here so as not to spoil it for future guests!
Dinner
Ham hock terrine with pickled carrots served with a white Rully 2022 from Saint Jaques
Chicken ballotine stuffed with salsa verde, whole-grain mustard, and orange juice, roasted purple heritage carrots, and sweetcorn purée. The red Bordeaux wine was a 2022 Saint-Émilion Croix Saint-Roc.
The cheeses were a blue Forme d'Ambert from Auvergne and an Abondance from Haute-Savoie.
The dessert was a beautifully presented Lemon tart with a deep red raspberry sorbet.
Tuesday
Cruise from Vincelles to Accolay
Visit to Auxerre city
In the morning after breakfast, we enjoyed a private guided tour of the city centre of Auxerre, which included a walk around the medieval half-timbered houses and also the magnificent cathedral. We walked along cobbled streets and past half-timbered buildings, and with the help of our excellent guide, discovered a multitude of coloured stones and hidden details.
Lunch buffet
- Chicken with tarragon sauce
- French onion tart
- Potatote and dill salad
- Goat's cheese, beetroot and basil salad
For dessert, we savoured fresh berries with vanilla ice cream
Lunch was served with Tavel Rosé les Mesilions, Côtes du Rhône 2024 from Armand Dartois. The wine is assembled with different grapes, but it will always contain Grenache.
In the afternoon, Luciole cruised along the canal and river, eventually joining a section called the Canal d'Accolay to Vermenton, and then we arrived in the quiet village of Accolay. The barge was moored on the canal next to the river "Cure".
Dinner
For tonight's dinner, we were taken to the Restaurant Angeline located in the town of Avallon. The exquisite cuisine offers a wide choice of dishes and excellent wines, but will remain a secret for you to perhaps enjoy when you cruise aboard Luciole.
We then returned to the barge and enjoyed digestives in excellent company
Wednesday
Cruise from Accolay to Mailly-le-Château
Visit to Noyers-sur-Serein
Our knowledgeable guide took us to the picturesque, historic town of Noyers-sur-Serein, officially listed among the most beautiful villages in France. Set in the countryside on the banks of a meandering river, we learnt of events over the centuries as the region alternated between Catholic and Protestant powers. The important fortifications were demolished in 1599 to honour a peace treaty between the opposing parties. Today, the town is sleepy, with much less commercial activity, and we all greatly enjoyed the market, art galleries, small boutiques and delightful winding, narrow streets. A cat even joined us on our walk as an unofficial guide!
Lunch buffet
- Prawns in garlic and chilli sauce
- Mixed charcuterie with pickles
- Tender stem broccoli and fresh cream with herbs
- Cumber and caper salad
- Feta cheese and watermelon salad
Lunch was served with a white Chardonnay Viognier 2024 from Languedoc-Roussillon
The afternoon cruise gave people plenty of time to cycle and walk along the towpath as the barge continued to climb the locks, working its way to the destination of Mailly-le-Château. The barge was moored in a peaceful location. Some of the guests enjoyed the "apero" time to learn to play the traditional French game of "Pétanque".
Dinner
Broccoli and blue cheese soup accompanied by a white Côte d'Auxerre 2024, a Chardonnay from Bailly-Lapierre
Local river trout with delicate pickled fennel and creamed garden pea, which was served with an Irancy 2022 Pinto-noir red wine.
Then followed a very traditional French Camembert cheese, and also a very tasty "Tomme de Savoie"
The chef baked an "upside-down" caramelised apple tart with vanilla mascarpone, which is called "Tarte Tatin"
Thursday
Cruise from Mailly-le-Château to Châtel-Censoir
In the morning, we cruised through the canal locks and the river. Once again, there was plenty of time to enjoy the views from the deck, to walk or cycle, and explore the ever-changing surroundings. Our ornithologists greatly enjoyed the bird song and seeing a variety of birds, including a swan nesting alongside the canal.
Lunch buffet
- Confit duck with raspberry and hoisin dressing
- Pasta with pesto
- Ricotta and spinach
- Roast butternut squash and pine nuts
- Pak-choi with sesame salad dressing
Lunch was served with a Pouilly-Fuissé Terres Secretes Premier Cru 2023 and an ice cream dessert with "langue de chats" biscuits.
Visit to Vézelay
The afternoon visit took us to one of Burgundy's most important UNESCO-listed monuments, the village and hill of Vézelay and the Basilique Sainte-Madeleine of Vézelay. We began exploring Vézelay with a walk up the main street, lined with boutiques and homes, some of which are hundreds of years old.
The Basilica can be seen from miles away as the Romanesque masterpiece from the 12th century stands on the Eternal Hill in the heart of Burgundy. It became an important pilgrimage centre after acquiring the relics of Mary Magdalene, and its sculpted capitals and grand narthex make it a landmark of medieval art. The site is also tied to major historical events, including sermons for the Crusades.
Dinner
Slow-braised pig cheeks with almond and potato purée served with Viré Clessé Clos du Chapitres 2022, a white Mâconnais, Chardonnay 100%
Lightly spiced lamb rump ballotine with a Puy lentil casserole and red cabbage
The red wine was Morgon La Channaise 2023, Beaujolais, Burgundy Gamay 100%
Two delicious cheeses, Reblechon from the Savoie region and a Côte d'Or from Burgundy
To finish dinner, our chef had prepared a Crème Brûlée
Friday
Cruise from Châtel-Censoir to Clamecy
The barge continued to cruise, heading for Clamecy. As Luciole passed through some locks, the river was close to the barge's starboard side; it was a great time for photographs of the landscape and abundant wildlife.
Lunch buffet
- Whole baked trout (from a local farm) in a salt crust, Boulgour taboulé
- Egg white frittata with leek and bacon
- Endive with grapefruit and cheese celeriac salad
A cooled Saint Bris Felix 2023, white Sauvignon wine
Chaource from the Yonne and a Cantal from the Auvergne
Visit to the Chateau of Bazoches
The Château de Bazoches, situated in the Nièvre region near Vézelay, was built in the 12th century as a medieval fortress. Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, Louis XIV's great military engineer, bought it in 1675 and lived there for a while. Vauban lived and worked in the château, where he developed many of his fortification plans in the long gallery that overlooked the Morvan landscape. Our tour took us through some fascinating rooms, including a keep, an incredible library housing some unique books, antechambers, and more.
We returned to our evening mooring beside the Yonne in the village of Lucy-sur-Yonne. Only the canal towpath separates the canal from the river here, which flows with a gentle rhythmic sound. This peaceful setting proved to be the perfect backdrop for our sundowners on the deck.
Dinner
This evening's dinner was very special as the Captain was our host for the evening.
The sumptious meal began with foie gras, topped with a fig preserve and smoked pear chutney
The white Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 2023 was a success with everybody at the table.
Followed by, Filet of Charolais beef with red wine jus sauce
Rosti and roasted onions with baked tomatoes
A rich Mercurey Premier Cru 2021 (Pinot Noir) from the Domain Picard,
Brie de Meaux, south east of Paris in the Champagne and Yonne
A blue Roquefort from the Aveyron
An extraordinary creamy Epoisses from central Burgundy
The dinner was completed with a Chocolate mousse infused with cherries.
The crew then joined us for a Champagne toast as we reminisced about our wonderful time on board Luciole. Sadly, our cruise was about to end.
Saturday
Departure from Lucy-sur-Yonne
After a hearty breakfast and farewells, we left the barge. The week on board the barge gave us all a fascinating insight into the waterways of Burgundy. We visited many historic places off the beaten track, a countryside that never ceased to change and encountered like-minded people who had now become friends.
We had tasted many dishes, both local and from other regions of France, with the variety of wine and cheese completing the gastronomic adventure.
We all had different routes to take, and left the barge with wonderful photos and memories to last a lifetime, OR until we cruise again!
Full details about this barge cruise
Emma at the helm of the barge
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